Tech firms such as Microsoft and Apple often release new versions of their software including web browser and office suites.

But what happens if you download the latest version, only to find you preferred its predecessor for whatever reason. You can of course head to the control panel and uninstall the offending program, then reinstall the original version. However, when it comes to Internet Explorer 9, Microsoft’s latest web browser. There is a simpler way to roll back to IE8. We show you how.

Step 1. Press the Start menu and in the search box at the bottom, type Programs and Features. Alternatively, from the Start menu, select Control Panel and choose the Programs option. Then click Programs and Features.

Step 2. From the options on the left-hand side of the window, select View Installed Updates.

Step 3. Once the list has been populated, scroll down to the section marked Microsoft Windows and then click on Windows Internet Explorer 9. Then press Uninstall which is located at the top of the window. You’ll be asked confirm you want to delete the browser update. Click Yes and Internet Explorer 9 will be uninstalled.

It’s worth noting you’ll need to restart your machine for the changes to take effect. You can either restart immediately or later. When prompted, choose whichever option your require.

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Sharing large files with friends and family, whether they’re digital photos or other documents, can cause some problems.

If you’re emailing the files, you run the risk of clogging up inboxes, while transferring the files to media that can be shared, whether it’s a USB stick or CD, means you have to keep a close eye that the files size doesn’t exceed the size of the media.

This is where the ability to ‘zip’ or compress files comes in. Using a tool in Windows, users can squash files so they have a smaller footprint and therefore can be shared more easily. It’s really simple to use too.

Step 1. Navigate to the file or folder you want to compress and right-click with your mouse. From the options displayed, select Compressed folder from the Send-to menu.

Step 2. Windows will now begin compressing the file or folder. Once completed, a new folder will appear in the same location, with a ‘zipper’ icon on it. You can now send this via email or transfer to USB stick.

Step 3. If you receive a compressed file or folder, you can view its contents by simply right-clicking on the file and selecting ‘Extract All’ from the options display. Windows will ask you to choose the location you want the extracted files to be stored and then complete the process for you. You can now view the files as normal.

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Fail to prepare; prepare to fail. So goes one of the most facile mantras ever uttered. But if you’re about to make some major changes to your PC, a certain amount of preparation is in order. This is particularly true if you’re about to wipe the hard drive in the course of an upgrade or repair.

Backing up your whole PC can take an entire day, but it’s worth doing so thoroughly. Here, we outline three scenarios in which you might want to back up your PC and suggest the best approach for each. We’ll cover why it’s important to maintain a backup, what to back up and how to manage your backups. We also explain how to create a drive image in preparation for porting everything over to a new PC, reinstalling Windows or reformatting the drive.

Backup Basics

Backing up usually involves making duplicate copies of your files so you can call on them should the originals become damaged, deleted or otherwise inaccessible. Since the most common reason for recourse to a backup copy is that the drive on which the original has failed, it makes sense to store the duplicate elsewhere.

Windows has built-in tools to enable you to make backup copies of the most obvious items: documents, photos, music and video. Right-click on a file or photo and you get options to Copy it or ‘Send To’ an external device. Copying to an external drive is the best bet, particularly if you’ve got many gigabytes of files to back up.

Don’t forget to look in folders created by the program associated with your camcorder or for the music you’ve bought from iTunes and so on. If you need nothing but the actual files stored on your PC, you can get away with simply dragging-and-dropping everything in your username account folder to a backup drive. If you also need to back up settings for the programs you use, the applications themselves and the latest updates and licences, you need a more complex backup.

The easiest option is to use the Backup and Restore Wizard, which Windows XP users will find under Control Panel, Performance and Maintenance; Windows Vista and Windows 7 users can invoke it by typing backup into the Start, Search menu. Allow the wizard to run, choosing ‘Backup’ rather than ‘Restore’ and selecting a documents-only or full backup or opting to create a system restore disc. For the latter, you’ll need a blank DVD to hand. Name the backup when prompted so you can find it easily later. As you’ll have seen at the start of the wizard, the same tool can be launched to restore files at a later date.

Automated Backups

Although it’s a great idea to have a backup of all your data, the exact contents of your PC are constantly changing. Even so, for most users it’s enough to back up documents and folders on a weekly basis.

Windows likes to schedule backups weekly anyway. If you’re storing a lot of photos and other files on your PC and routinely download and install programs, we recommend this plan. You can set Windows to perform its backups when the computer isn’t being used. That way it won’t interfere with your important iTunes download or BBC iPlayer enjoyment, but you’ll have the reassurance of a regularly backed-up PC.

To schedule backups in Windows XP, head back to the Performance and Maintenance pane and choose Scheduled Tasks. In Vista and Windows 7, this option is offered in the Backup and Restore wizard.

For business users in particular, having a backup routine in place is critical. Automated backups via Windows are unlikely to suffice. Instead, we recommend using a networked hard drive or RAID device that backs up all the computers on the network at a set time each evening or overnight, and from which any necessary restores can be performed.

Software such as WD Smartware often comes with external backup drives; other drives may include encryption software or even hard-disk encryption to prevent rogue access to your files. At the consumer end, a locally attached external hard drive with backup-scheduling software will provide peace of mind.

Online Backups

A further option for ongoing backups is to use the cloud. This means that you back up your files over the web and store them on a remote server. Uploading happens over your broadband connection and is protected by the password and login credentials you set, plus encryption at the storage end.

You can usually log in and download the files you want on demand, which makes cloud or online storage ideal if you need to be able to access your work files (or music) from anywhere and everywhere.

Note that online storage can become expensive and isn’t recommended for full system backups. It’s perfect, however, for ad-hoc backups of items you value, such as photos and important documents.

Moving Data to a New Hard Drive

When copying everything from an old hard drive to a new one, the process isn’t as simple as dragging-and-dropping the files. This method will miss your boot sector, important parts of Windows and any hidden partitions – if your PC came with Windows installed, it’s probably got a hidden partition that you’ll need to copy over should you have to reinstall the operating system.

To ensure everything gets backed up, you can either create a disk image or clone the drive. Imaging backs up everything on your hard drive to a single, very large file. It’s therefore usual to save the disk image to an external hard drive or DVD. Cloning directly copies the contents of one drive on to another.

Create a Clone

Cloning is a better choice if you’re moving everything from one drive to another. Two useful tools, EaseUs Disk Copy and ISO Recorder, will make the process as pain-free as possible.

When cloning a drive, your PC needs access to both hard drives simultaneously. If you have a desktop PC, you can install the new drive as a second internal drive (which will become the first one after you remove the older drive). If you have a laptop, or don’t want to fiddle around with motherboard cables, try a USB 2.0-to-IDE/SATA drive adapter to turn your internal drive into a temporary external one.

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Microsoft Chairman Bill Gates declared the password dead. He told his audience that the password can’t meet the challenge of keeping sensitive information protected, saying “People use the same password on different systems, they write them down and they just don’t meet the challenge for anything you really want to secure.”

That was six years ago at the 2004 RSA Security Conference. Paraphrasing some wisdom from Samuel Clemens, the rumors of the password’s demise have been greatly exaggerated. It is still the primary security control used to protect data, accounts, and pretty much everything else on a computer.

Gates may have been premature in calling the time of death on the password, but his assessment of why the password is inadequate as a security control were accurate. A study of more than 30 million passwords exposed when Rockyou.com was hacked found that almost half use names, common dictionary words, or sequential characters like “qwerty”.

Fingerprint scanners and other biometric controls are becoming more mainstream, but the password will still be the main barrier between hackers and your data for the foreseeable future. With that in mind, here is how to create a secure password that you can actually remember in “12345” easy steps.

1. No Personal Information. Any novice hacker can easily find out your full name, the names of your spouse or children, your pets, or your favorite sports teams. Never choose a password that has anything to do with you personally.

2. No real words. Let’s take that a step farther. Not only should you not use your name or your pet’s name, you shouldn’t use any actual word that can be found in a dictionary. Passwords like that can be easily cracked by password software.

3. Mix Character Types. Passwords are almost always case-sensitive, so use both upper and lower case letters to make it more difficult. To really make it complex, be more creative than just capitalising the first letter. For example, do “paSswoRd” instead of just “Password”. Better yet, throw in some numbers and special characters to substitute for letters, and do “p@Ssw0Rd”.

4. Use a Passphrase. Scratch that. Some password cracking utilities are also smart enough to use common character substitutions for common words. Cracking “p@ssw0rd” may take longer than cracking “password”, but it will still be relatively trivial to crack because, special characters or not, the password is still “password”.

Instead, take your favorite line from a movie, song, or book and convert it to a passphrase. If you like the scene from A Few Good Men when Jack Nicholson is on the stand, take the line “You want the truth? You can’t handle the truth!” and convert it to “Ywtt?Ychtt!”. It has upper case and lower case letters, as well as special characters. It is not a word appearing in any dictionary, yet it is simple for you to remember.

5. Use a Tool. The main reason that users choose passwords that are easy to crack is that they want to choose passwords that are easy to remember. It is obviously much easier to remember your dog’s name, or type characters in the order they appear on the keyboard, like “123456”, than it is to recall “a5$jgFD118@Kle45@”. But, guess which one is more secure?

You can use a password management tool to store complex passwords. It has some impact on security since cracking the password to access the password management tool grants access to all the rest of the passwords, but it does enable you to use stronger passwords for various Web sites, accounts, and applications without having to remember them all.

Windows has included a Credential Manager utility since Windows XP that lets users save passwords and provides a single sign-on solution. Logging in to Windows unlocks the vault and automatically applies the credentials from the vault as needed to access sites and applications.

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In recent weeks, more and more iTunes users have been reporting fraudulent activity on their Apple iTunes Store accounts, reporting hundreds or even thousands of dollars worth of bogus purchases. With the reports of this type of fraud increasing in recent weeks, many users have been quick to blame Apple or PayPal, as many of the affected iTunes accounts were linked to PayPal accounts.

But the problem cannot be blamed on a software security flaw, nor can it be fixed with a quick patch. The problem, it seems, actually lies with iTunes users. Here’s what you need to know in order to keep yourself and your iTunes account safe.

The Problem is in the Passwords

Hackers can make fraudulent purchases on iTunes accounts to which they have obtained the passwords. But these passwords were not obtained by breaking into Apple’s servers; Apple sources tell CNET that “iTunes has not been compromised and the company is not aware of any sudden increase in fraudulent transactions.”

Instead, it seems, hackers are obtaining passwords through good, old-fashioned phishing scams. iTunes users often don’t know how their accounts were compromised, but it seems that many are simply handing out their user names and passwords without realising it. Sometimes, they’re doing so in hopes of getting a good deal – by buying unauthorised iTunes gift codes online, for example.

The takeaway should be obvious, but it’s worth repeating: Never reveal your iTunes user name and password to anyone except within iTunes itself. You also should change your iTunes password regularly and choose a password that is secure.

Automatic Payments

Many users store their credit card or PayPal account information with their iTunes account, so they need to enter only a user name and password to make a purchase. Once that information is entered, the amount of your iTunes purchase is automatically charged to your credit card or PayPal account. If you don’t check your bank statements regularly, hackers could rack up a good deal of iTunes charges before you even realise that your account has been compromised.

You have a couple of options to prevent this. One is to remove the credit card or PayPal account information that you have stored in iTunes. This means you’ll have to enter it manually every time you want to make a purchase, which could become annoying. If you decide you want to keep the information stored in iTunes, you should be vigilant about checking your accounts. Check your account activity and balance regularly to make sure that there has been no unauthorised activity.

Available Remedies

What if there has been unauthorised activity? What should you do then? Apple recommends that all users contact their financial institution to discuss unauthorised charges. PayPal reportedly is reimbursing customers who’ve been hit with fraudulent activity on their accounts, and many credit card companies have standard policies in place to do the same.

Apple also suggests that users change their iTunes passwords immediately, which is easy enough if you still have access to your iTunes account. But some users have reported that the hackers have gone into their iTunes accounts and changed the passwords themselves – leaving the actual account owner without access. In this case, you’ll need to reset the password manually. To do this, you’ll need your Apple ID and access to a linked e-mail account, or you’ll have to answer the security questions that were provided when you created your Apple ID.

If you’re thinking it would be easier to start over and simply cancel your account, well, that’s not exactly the case. There is no link in iTunes that allows you to easily cancel your account; to do so, you’ll have to contact Apple directly. And if you do decide to cancel your account, you could lose access to all of the content you’ve previously purchased from Apple’s iTunes store.

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I have heard (and seen) many reports of people struggling with the recent Apple iOS4 upgrade on their iPhone 3Gs. Many of it’s features are not compatible with the 2 year old handsets anyway. There is no multi-tasking, no orientation lock and you cannot change your background wallpaper. Worst of all, it slows the once functional phones until they’re near useless.

Apps have been known to crash, or are very slow to open. Download speeds are slow and the entire OS even crashes back to the Apple-logo screen. It’s just not worth it. Therefore I found a way to rollback to the older, more stable iOS 3.1.3.

What you need to begin:

1. Check your backup(s)
So we don’t get ahead of ourselves, before you restore your iPhone with the older iOS, think about if you want to set up your newly downgraded phone to default settings as if it were a new phone, or if you’ll be restoring it to a backup. The only catch is that you can only use an iOS 3.1.3 backup, not a backup made after you put iOS 4 on your phone.

iOS 4 was released on June 21, 2010. To see if you have any backups made with iOS 3.1.3, navigate to ~/Library/Application Support/MobileSync/Backup and see if any of the folders are dated before then. Since iTunes doesn’t keep more than one backup per device, if you’ve synced your iPhone to iTunes after upgrading to iOS 4, you probably don’t have a backup of your phone with iOS 3.1.3.

2. Data Dump
It’s pretty safe to assume you’ll be setting up your iPhone running OS 3.1.3 as a new iPhone. Therefore it’s crucial to retrieve any important information before you attempt the restore. You should sync any Notes to your Mac, or email them to yourself.

Take screenshots of your home screens so you can set them up the same way later. You can also take screenshots of your email account pages if you think you’ll need help setting them up again. Transfer those screenshots and any photos you’ve taken to iPhoto.

3. No Data Left Behind
iTunes can transfer iTunes Store and App Store purchases onto your Mac. If you buy music or apps directly on your phone, connect it to your Mac and choose File > Transfer Purchases from [Phone Name] in iTunes. You’ll also lose your SMS and MMS messages, so take screenshots of those, or follow the instructions at www.insend.de to back them up as a PDF, CSV, or XML file.

Basically, you need get every scrap of information on your iPhone onto your computer somewhere, because you’re about to wipe your iPhone completely. Another important thing to remember is that any apps you put back on your restored phone will behave as though you’ve never used them.

So if you use apps with accounts tied to them such as Facebook, Twitter etc. you might want to note down your account information. And sadly, you’ll lose your progress in any games, plus lose access to the iBooks app, which requires iOS 4 to run.

4. Download
Now that you’ve dealt with what restoring will do to your iPhone, it’s time to get started.

First, head to www.iclarified.com and download the 228MB disk image of the iPhone OS 3.1.3 firmware for the iPhone 3G (or the iPhone 3GS, if that’s what you’re restoring). Save the file to your Desktop. Then install an app called RecBoot. This requires OS 10.5 or later and an Intel Mac.

5. DFU Mode
When you see iTunes has detected an iPhone in recovery mode. You must restore this iPhone before it can be used with iTunes, you’re in DFU mode and can proceed to Step 6. Next, put your phone in Device Firmware Update mode. Plug the phone into your Mac, and turn the phone off by holding the Sleep button and using the “Slide to Power Off” slider.

After the iPhone is off, hold down both the Sleep button and the Home button while you slowly count to 10. Then release the Sleep button but keep that Home button pressed down. After a few more seconds, iTunes will display the dialog above. If that doesn’t work, repeat this entire step until it does.

6. Restore
Option-click Restore, choose the 3.1.3 firmware, and watch the progress bars. Close the iTunes has detected an iPhone in recovery mode dialog. Now click the iPhone in the iTunes sidebar and Option-click the Restore button. You’ll be asked to Choose a File. Select the iPhone OS 3.1.3 firmware file you downloaded in Step 4.

You’ll see an extracting software progress bar, then a Preparing iPhone for Restore progress bar. Your iPhone will have a progress bar too while it’s being restored. You should expect this to take 10 minutes or so, but it has been known to take slightly longer. Don’t dismiss the error dialog that pops up when it’s finished.

7. Enter RecBoot
Don’t dismiss the error message until after RecBoot has done its thing. To repeat, when you see the error dialog The iPhone could not be restored. An unknown error occurred (1015) DON’T DISMISS IT YET. (At this point, your iPhone is showing a Connect to iTunes screen.) Instead, go to your Applications folder, where you installed RecBoot.

Look in the RecBoot 1.0.2 folder, and you’ll see a ReadMe file, plus applications called RecBoot and RecBoot Exit Only. Launch RecBoot Exit Only. Select the large Exit Recovery Mode button. The Connect to iTunes screen will disappear from your iPhone, and you can now dismiss the error message in iTunes.

8. Set Your iPhone Up
The latest iOS Software Update screen will appear, you should select Don’t Ask Me Again. The next dialog will be about helping Apple improve its products. Agree or disagree at your leisure, and then after another minute or so your iPhone will display the iPhone is activated message, and iTunes will launch the Set Up Your iPhone screen, which asks you if you want to set up as a new iPhone or restore from a backup. As explained in Step 1, you most likely won’t have a backup to restore to, so you can set it up as a new iPhone.

Your “new iPhone” will be running and ready for you to refill with apps, music, photos, contacts, and all your other information. The next time you get a message about updating to the latest iOS, check the box for Don’t Ask Me Again before you say ‘No’.

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Having switched to an Apple Mac and struggled to figure out how to transfer across my iTunes library for quite some time, I thought I would share the quickest way I found to move it. Copying the music is simple enough, but I wanted to keep my library file intact with all the play counts, ratings and everything else that I had built up over several years.

There are plenty of confusing guides across the Internet that talk about editing XML files and changing access permissions, but I eventually discovered that it is much simpler than anybody realises. So here is my simple 4-step guide to transferring your iTunes library from PC to Mac:

1. PC – Consolidate your Music Library
In your Windows version of iTunes, go to the EditPreferences menu, select the Advanced tab and then the General tab. Make sure that both Keep iTunes Music Folder Organised and Copy files to iTunes Music folder when adding to library have ticks in their boxes, and make a note of the iTunes Music folder location.

Click OK to save changes and close the Preferences window, and then go to the Advanced menu and select Consolidate Library. This all ensures that every single music file is held in the same directory, making it very easy to copy all of your music across.

2. Mac – Initiate your new iTunes folder
Open iTunes on your Mac. From the iTunes menu select Preferences, then the Advanced icon and then the General pane. Again make sure that both Keep iTunes Music Folder Organised and Copy files to iTunes Music folder when adding to library are ticked, and make a note of the iTunes Music folder location. You can now close iTunes.

3. PC – Mac
You now need to copy across your music folder. On your PC, go to the iTunes Music folder that you noted down earlier and copy everything across to your Mac’s iTunes Music folder. Either move it all to an external hard drive first, or perhaps share the folders across a network and copy across directly. This step puts your music in the right place on your Mac.

4. PC – Mac
Copy across your library file. Find the iTunes Library.itl file on your Windows PC (it should be in the My Documents – My Music – iTunes folder). Copy this across to your Mac’s iTunes folder (NOT the iTunes Music folder, but one folder back from that – you should have the correct folder if it shows the iTunes Library and iTunes Music Library.xml files in it).

Now delete the iTunes Library file on your Mac, and then rename your newly copied across iTunes Library.itl file to your iTunes Library (i.e. Remove the .itl extension from the end). This has given your Mac’s iTunes a new library file populated with all the extras you wanted to keep from your old library.

That’s all there is to it! When you next open up iTunes on your Mac, all of your music should be visible and all of your playlists, play counts, ratings and album artwork should be just as they were on your PC. However, if something is not quite right, don’t panic – nothing has been deleted from your PC so you can go through the process again.

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When you start up your internet browser, whether it is Internet Explorer, Mozilla Firefox, Opera or Google Chrome, to look at pages on the Internet, the first page that comes up is your Internet starting page, that is your home page. But you’re not stuck with it – you can change it to any page you like.

Often, homepages on internet browsers are set to be the “default” which your ISP has put in, which is good for them, as it directs you straight to their site. You may also see links on some websites showing “Make us your homepage”.

Regardless of what internet site you would like as your homepage, the website you have when you start up your internet browser should be your choice, and I hope to explain how you can make the necessary changes to your internet browser.

If you have Internet Explorer:

  • Click on Tools on the menu bar at the top of the screen
  • Select Internet Options
  • Under the General tab, the top section shows Home page with a picture of a house, and a box showing you current home page(s)
  • Type in the Internet address (URL) of any home page you choose (including the http://)
  • Select Apply and then OK
  • Restart Internet Explorer to ensure your new home page opens.

If you have Mozilla Firefox:

  • Click on Tools on the menu bar at the top of the screen
  • Select Options
  • Under the Main tab, the top section shows Homepage
  • Type in the Internet address (URL) of any home page you choose (including the http://)
  • Select OK
  • Restart Mozilla Firefox to ensure your new home page opens.

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As you browse the Internet, each of the items you view are saved locally on your hard disk drive. This helps web pages you visit frequently load faster by loading the files from your hard disk drive instead of having to download the web page again.

To conserve hard disk drive space or to help keep their Internet browsing private, users may find it necessary to delete their internet history.

If you have Internet Explorer:

Note: Users running Internet Explorer 7.0 and above will need to press the ALT key in order to access the file menu easily to get access to options such as File, Tools, etc.

Viewing History

Internet Explorer 7 and above users can view their history files by clicking the Tools menu, Internet Options, clicking the Settings button under the Browsing history, and then clicking View Files.

Internet Explorer 6.x users can view their history files by clicking the Tools menu, Internet Options, clicking the Settings button, and then clicking View Files.

Deleting History

Microsoft Windows users running Microsoft Internet Explorer 6.x and 7.x can delete their history files by clicking the Tools menu, Internet Options, and clicking the Delete Files or Delete button. Users also have the option of automatically deleting files each time the close the browser window by clicking the Advanced tab and checking Empty Temporary Internet Files folder when browser is closed under the Security section.

If you have Mozilla Firefox:

Viewing History

Press CTRL and H to open the left-side history bar or click History at the top of the window. Users using earlier versions of Mozilla Firefox can also view their history by clicking Go and clicking History.

Deleting History

Mozilla Firefox users can clear their history by clicking the Tools menu, Options, clicking the Privacy button, and under History click the Clear or Clear Now button or press CTRL and SHIFT and DEL to open the Clear Data Window.

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preWeb IT Solutions provide IT support and web design services to the small business and home user in Kent and the Greater London area.

Offering a complete range of IT support and computer services to meet the needs of small businesses and home users in Maidstone and around the wider Kent area, preWeb IT Solutions offer a cost effective IT outsourcing facility, without the need to hire an office-based IT team.

With over 8 years of small business experience, preWeb IT Solutions prides itself on its expertise and customer satisfaction. With a guarantee of professional service and value for money, let us help you to make the most of the latest Internet trends




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